Athens Food Guide: Souvlaki, Tavernas & the Modern Greek Kitchen

Athens's food scene is experiencing a renaissance — a city that spent decades undervalued gastronomically is now home to a generation of chefs reimagining Greek ingredients through contemporary lenses, while the traditional taverna culture of shared plates, house wine, and long evenings remains as vital as ever. The souvlaki is Athens's street food currency: grilled pork skewers in pita with tzatziki and tomatoes, best at Thanasis and Kostas in Monastiraki — both institutions with queues that move fast. The Central Market (Varvakios Agora) on Athinas Street is the city's magnificent wholesale market, open from dawn: butchers, fishmongers, spice vendors, and the extraordinary ouzo-and-mezedes breakfast culture of Epirus tavernas. Psiri neighbourhood around Plateia Iroon is the modern taverna district: Seychelles, Avli, and Manas Kouzina Kouzina serve contemporary Greek cuisine with natural wines. For the full traditional experience, take the tram to Piraeus and eat grilled fish at a harbour-view table — sea bass, bream, and octopus sold by weight.