Best of Athens
Piraeus: Athens' Ancient Port and Seafood Hub
Piraeus has served as Athens' port for over two and a half millennia, since Themistocles recognised its natural harbours as the foundation of Athenian naval supremacy in the 5th century BC. Today it remains one of the Mediterranean's busiest ports, handling the ferry connections that link Athens with the Cyclades, Dodecanese, Crete, and the islands of the Saronic Gulf — routes that have sustained Greek island culture for generations. The port's scale is extraordinary: on summer mornings the car ferry terminals teem with travellers loading vehicles, luggage, and motorcycles onto vessels bound for Mykonos, Santorini, Rhodes, and dozens of smaller islands that define the Greek archipelago.
Beyond the ferries, Piraeus has a layered identity that rewards visitors willing to explore beyond the terminal buildings. Mikrolimano — the small harbour — is lined with seafood restaurants specialising in the grilled fish and octopus that constitute Greece's finest simple cuisine. Watching local fishermen bring in their morning catch while restaurant owners negotiate over the day's supply is a scene of Mediterranean commerce that has changed little in centuries. The Archaeological Museum of Piraeus houses remarkable bronze statues recovered from the harbour bed, including the Piraeus Apollo — one of the oldest surviving large-scale bronze figures from ancient Greece.
The neighbourhood of Kastella climbs the hill above Mikrolimano with neoclassical and art deco architecture from Piraeus's 19th-century commercial golden age. The open-air Veakio Theatre presents summer theatrical performances against a backdrop of the Saronic Gulf. The Sunday flea market in the streets around Dimotiki Agora draws antique hunters from across Attica, with a particularly excellent selection of maritime ephemera, old maps, and 20th-century Greek household objects that document the country's modern history through its everyday material culture.